Lifting up and bobbing down. The rhythm of climbing these walls of water have a metronomic movement. The tick lifts, the tock drops. The wall starts to foam as it grows. The taller it gets the foamier it grows. As the sun shines through it, it raises you up and it drops you off. Off into the navy blue, the cobalt blue, the dark, the cold. The light doesn’t shine here. The water is too flat, it doesn’t raise, it sits there, just waiting.
Get yourself into the wrong place and it’s a different story. Gone is the rhythm and the beat of the metronome and in comes the crash of the symbol. The foaming tower grows too big, it picks you up and throws you back into the deep blue that you just paddled over. The lights go dark. A heavy, opaque curtain covers the sun and holds you down. The rich blues turn black as the towering tonnes of water pass over your face.
The primal reaction makes you panic. Bad situation - must get out. The sheer force has you upside down, or maybe right side up. In the dark it’s hard to tell. Swim hard to the left - nothing. Swim hard to the right - again, nothing. In a bad situation with no control. Today that is a rarity, to be completely out of control. Nobody to fix it for you, nobody to complain to, nobody to write a one-star scathing review about. It’s just you.
Everything changes with a splash of perspective. Losing control can lead to acceptance, to faith and even hope. Remove yourself from the situation and see only a person instead. A person has been knocked underwater. The person is in a bad situation, but it’s only temporary. The wave will pass, the light will come, the person will float.
Gone is the panic and the growing fear. Instead, we get to see the colors. The dark is actually a rolling blue, as bright as birds and delicate as eyes. Tumbling with cuts of whites and slices of green. We can see the living sea, feel the breathing sun. Lying in limbo under the power of the wave the colors wash away, cleared by bubbles and foam. The sun, the floating, flaming ball of gas forever and a day away begins to peak through. The cycle continues and the foam clears. The hold of the wave weans as well. Our toes touch the sand as the warmth hits our skin again. Look up, open our eyes and push. Our head pops up to the surface and we breathe again.